A kinder, gentler, Jurassic World

psittacosaurus, at the Prehistoric Gardens, Port Orford, Oregon

psittacosaurus, at the Prehistoric Gardens, Port Orford, Oregon

Dinosaurs continue to fascinate. My first ambition in life, after a trip to the New York Museum of Natural History, was to become a paleontologist. Eventually, my life goals changed, and the T-Rex envy faded.

calvin-hobbes-dinosaur-005

Yet decades before Jurassic Park was a gleam in some screenwriter’s eye, Ernie Nelson, of Eugene, Oregon, did not outgrow his fascination with dinosaurs. He made them his life’s work in a most unusual way.

In 1953, Nelson gathered his family and left Eugene, where he worked as a CPA and owned a Mill supply company, to relocate to a valley near Port Orford, where rainfall averaged seven feet per year – he needed a rain forest.

In 1955, he opened the Prehistoric Gardens, and over 30 years, built 23 full size and anatomically correct dinosaurs. This unique roadside attraction is still in the family. Ernie’s granddaughter welcomed Mary and me in August, after we’d driven down from Bandon to see the dinos.

Not what you expect to see when you round the bend on the coast highway, but then, to paraphrase Monty Python, no one EVER expects a Tyrannosaurus!

Not what you expect to see when you round the bend on the coast highway, but then, to paraphrase Monty Python, no one EVER expects a Tyrannosaurus!

Nelson’s process was painstaking. His research was constant and thorough, and included a  trip back east to visit the Smithsonian. Each dinosaur began with a steel frame, which was then covered with a metal lath. A layer of concrete followed, and then another layer to define the visual features.  The Brachiosaurus, 86′ long snd 46′ high, took four years to complete and was his pride and joy.

Ernie working on the peterandon

Ernie working on the peterandon

The Prehistoric Garden’s website says the 23 sculptures were painted according to available scientific research. We normally don’t think of dinosaurs as colorful, though plenty of lizards, chameleons, and snakes in our world are.

I’m willing to trust Ernie on his color choices, but what I liked best was the aspect where I think imagination overrode research. Some of these critters are just so darn cute in, a wide-eyed sort of way.  I don’t want make Ernie turn over in his grave by calling his critters “cute,” but there’s just no other word for this triceratops, which has the same expression as one of my dogs!

triceratops small_edited-1

Some of us can remember the days of wacky roadside attractions on Route 66 or Hwy. 99 – giant oranges, strange animals, and gas stations designed to look like flying saucers.  There were animal parks, fairytale towns, and north pole villages in the days when Ernie Nelson moved his family to southern Oregon to shape his dream in concrete and steel.

The ichthyosaurus is suffering from the drought this year just like we are.

The ichthyosaurus is suffering from the drought this year just like we are.

Nowadays the most frequent sights, as we blow past towns on the interstate, are fast food joints and the same old big-box stores. Santa’s Village has long been shuttered, and the kids have video games and DVD’s to mitigate the boring view out the windows.

Like the dinosaurs, the Prehistoric Gardens speaks of a different era, one in which peace had come, America was unrivaled, and more people than ever before had jobs, cars, money, cheap gas, kids, health care, and paid vacations.

All those attributes can ebb and flow, but there is one precious thing we can always borrow from Ernie Nelson – the example of what an individual can do when he rolls up his sleeves, opens his mind and heart, and lets his creativity flow.

A great story I neglected to post

I found this during a year-end cleaning of my “Drafts” folder – an unfinished post inspired by a newspaper article in July which details the life’s work of unsung folk artist, Arthur Harold Beal, garbage collector for the town of Cambria, CA.

Just down the road from the Hearst Castle, that world-famous monument to excess, lies Nitt Witt Ridge, the house on the hill that Beal lovingly crafted of driftwood, river stones, beer bottles, abalone shells, toilet seats, and other assorted junk.  Beal started work in the 30’s was still going in 1992, when he died at the age of 96.

Nitt Witt Ridge by megpi, CC BY-NC-SA-2.0

Nitt Witt Ridge by megpi, CC BY-NC-SA-2.0

Michael O’Malley, a plumber in town, bought the Ridge for $42,000 in 1999.  Unfortunately, the sale price did not include water rights, so he and his wife cannot live there, and because it is zoned residential, they can’t open the house for public tours.  Several times a week in the summer, O’Malley gives private tours, in return for donations, to people who contact him directly.  He is something of an expert on stories surrounding the Ridge’s creator.

Beal used to say he salvaged his wood from the ocean, but O’Malley points out the quality of the material, and suggests that Beal might have “salvaged” it from local construction sites late at night.  Beal seems to have been a curmudgeon.  Some people asked to visit the house while he was still living.  If he liked their looks, he’d let them in, if not, he would shake his fist and yell, “Move along, small change.”  O’Malley found a video of Beal on a 1981 TV episode of “Real People.”  At age 81, with a long beard and a walking staff, “he looked like a mix of John Muir and Dennis Hopper.”

Here’s a brief but informative clip of O’Malley giving a tour of the house:

Last summer, when I started this post, I added descriptions of other architectural oddities, like the Watt Towers and the Bottle House of Rhyolite, NV.  The story grew too long and languished until now.

The end of the year is a good time to contemplate things like Nitt Witt Ridge.  While others compile their lists of “The Best of 2013,” here is my contribution to a list of things wacky and weird.

Assurance: a poem by William Stafford and autumn photographs

Wawona, CA.  November 2013

Wawona, CA. November 2013

We were fortunate enough to be able to spend most of last week in Yosemite.  Though all seasons are wonderful there, late fall is my favorite in the Sierras.  It had recently snowed, and another storm was said to be moving in, but our days were mild, and the winter light was on fire.  Wherever I walked, a poem by William Stafford accompanied me.

Wawona, CA.  November, 2013

Wawona, CA. November, 2013

Assurance by William Stafford

You will never be alone, you hear so deep
a sound when autumn comes. Yellow
pulls across the hills and thrums,
or the silence after lightening before it says
its names- and then the clouds’ wide-mouthed
apologies. You were aimed from birth:
you will never be alone. Rain
will come, a gutter filled, an Amazon,
long aisles- you never heard so deep a sound,
moss on rock, and years. You turn your head-
that’s what the silence meant: you’re not alone.
The whole wide world pours down.

– from The Way It Is, Graywolf Press, 1999

Yosemite Valley, November 2013

Yosemite Valley, November 2013

You will never be alone, you hear so deep
a sound when autumn comes.

Yosemite Valley, November 2013

Yosemite Valley, November 2013

Yosemite Valley, November, 2013

Yosemite Valley, November, 2013

Yellow pulls across the hills and thrums

Yosemite Valley, November, 2013

Yosemite Valley, November, 2013

You were aimed from birth:
you will never be alone.

Yosemite Valley, November, 2013

Yosemite Valley, November, 2013

You turn your head-
that’s what the silence meant: you’re not alone.

Wawona, CA.  November, 2013

Wawona, CA. November, 2013

The whole wide world pours down.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Horizon

Bandon, Oregon, 2013

Bandon, Oregon, 2013

Elle est retrouvée.
Quoi? – L’Éternité.
C’est la mer allée
Avec le soleil.
– Arthur Rimbaud, 1872

Bandon, Oregon, 2011

Bandon, Oregon, 2011

It has been found again.
What? – Eternity.
It is the sea gone away
With the sun.
– Arthur Rimbaud, 1872

Bandon, Oregon, 2013

Bandon, Oregon, 2013

Stranger in a strange (and beautiful) land

Retreat house dining room, Skalholt, Iceland

Retreat house dining room, Skalholt, Iceland

This post was sparked by todays WordPress Daily Prompt, “Blogger in a Strange Land,” which asked, “What is the strangest place from which you’ve posted to your blog?”  My answer was easy:  the dining room of the Skalholt Retreat House in Iceland, where Mary and I and a small group of storytellers spent an amazing week just over a year ago.

If you search here on “Iceland,” you’ll find an account of the trip, photos, and a detailed discussion of Njal’s Saga, which was central to our purpose in traveling.  This post concerns the dining room.

Those are real grapevines and bougainvilleas twining through the rafters under the skylight.  Through the windows you see the autumn colors of a hedge and beyond that, fog.  It was late morning when this picture was taken, probably 40 degrees Fahrenheit  outside.  Imagine how inviting it was to sit with a cup of coffee and write in this bright room where it was warm enough for grapes, and flower petals sometimes drifted onto the table.

Guesthouse, Skalholt

Guesthouse, Skalholt

“Strange” can happen anywhere, but it’s always by one’s side when traveling.  When we leave our familiar contexts behind, there’s a chance to peek around corners and see things that day-to-day vision too often misses.

“Fare forward, travelers!  not escaping from the past
Into different lives, or into any future;
You are not the same people who left that station
Or who will arrive at any terminus” – T.S. Eliot

Face Rock, Bandon, Oregon

face rock

From this perspective, it’s easy to see how Face Rock, got it’s name.  Legend says that long ago, Chief Siskiyou from the mountains came to the sea to trade with the four tribes that lived in this region.  Warriors stood on the bluffs above the ocean fearing that the evil sea-spirit, Seatka might cause trouble.

Siskiyou’s daugher, Princess Ewauna, was not afraid of the spirit, and one night, when the moon was full, she slipped away from camp with her faithful dog and a basket with her cat and kittens nestled inside.  She went swimming, farther and farther from shore, ignoring the warning barks of her dog.  Seatka captured the princess.

Carrying the basket of cats, the dog swam out to Ewauna and bit the evil Seatka.  Howling, he shook off the dog and threw the cats into the sea.  Seatka tried to make Ewauna look into his eyes, but she refused and kept her gaze on the moon.  The dog ran on the beach howling, but in time, he, the cats, and Ewauna, still gazing up at the moon, were frozen into stone where they remain to this very day.

I first passed through Bandon, Oregon back in college days, and it’s one of those places that has drawn me back ever since.  I took the current blog header photo two years ago at a spot about half a mile up the beach overlook trail.

With the wind off the sea and afternoon fog, it is downright chilly.  I had almost forgotten what chilly is like, but I remembered this afternoon, rolling into town in cutoffs and t-shirt.  It’s hard to pack for cold weather when it’s 100+ degrees outside, so tomorrow will likely involve shopping for a sweatshirt.

This will probably be a quiet week on thefirstgates, as we wander the shore, listen to the ocean, and eat cranberry oatmeal cookies.

Photo by Casey Fleser, CC-by-3.0

Photo by Casey Fleser, CC-by-3.0

See you then, with more stories and photographs.

Light and Shadow

Light and Shadow 6 blog

These photographs were taken in Wawona, just inside the south entrance to Yosemite National Park.

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April is warm this year.  Mornings in the 30’s, daytime temperatures sometimes reaching the 70’s.  A few days ago it snowed, though all traces are gone.

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Light and shadow 1 blog

I think of the Summer King and the Winter King in Celtic folklore.  Their battle for ascendency never ends.  The King of Summer is winning now, but they’ll meet again in autumn.

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The sun is so bright and the shadows so deep they stop you.  Their interweaving patterns, stirring in the breeze, shift from moment to moment.

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The world changes before our eyes. Always the same and never the same.

Yosemite in autumn

My family first came to Yosemite when I was a kid, and I’ve returned most years since then.  Mary and I started traveling to the park soon after we met and were able to get up here again this week.  Of all the seasons, late fall is my favorite.  Here are some photographs taken in Yosemite in autumn over the last half-dozen years.

Merced River, south fork, Nov. 2009

Yosemite Valley, Nov. 2012. Photo by Mary.

Wawona. Nov, 2012.

Above Merced River, Nov, 2012.

Pool by Merced River, Nov. 2012

Yosemite is full of dramatic features and vistas, many made world famous by Ansel Adams, but often the feel of being in these mountains is best conveyed by what is right at hand or at one’s feet.

Wawona woods, Nov. 2012

There aren’t enough different types of trees to rival New England fall colors, but I still never tire of those afternoons when the autumn light turns the oak leaves to gold.

Dry riverbed, Oct. 2010

Wawona woods, Nov. 2012

South Fork, Merced River, Oct. 2010

Half Dome from Sentinel Dome, Oct. 2010

Yosemite Valley, Nov, 2006

Afternoon sky, Wawona, Nov, 2012. Photo by Mary

Photographing, 2012. Photo by Mary

Wawona woods, 2012

Wawona, near the south entrance of the park, is one of the best kept Yosemite secrets. Hiking, swimming, camping, lodging, markets, a restaurant, and access to skiing in winter are all at hand, minus the crowds of the valley. Don’t tell anyone…

Wawona woods, Nov, 2012